A planned Sugar Bowl trip to New Orleans had this Cincinnati Bearcat fan excited for more reasons than I could count ~ spending quality time with my family, cheering the Bearcats to a win, warmer weather, Bourbon Street and the French Quarter, hurricanes from Pat O' Brien's, AND exploring a city where Lucinda Williams lived and performed as well as visited in the early stages of her career. I'm a part of her cultish fan base, as it has so often been described, and thought it would be fun to follow in her footsteps in the city where she found her groove.Armed with handwritten sugestions from Lucinda of places she frequented, provided by her manager/husband and biggest fan, I gleefully set out with lists in hand. First, we (my husband, son, father-in-law and brother-in-law) stopped by The Coffee Pot, one of many quaint restaurants lining the French Quarter, with recommendations to sample the Calas or Lost Bread(Pain Perdu), both traditional Creole recipes, according to Lu's notes. Tom, Lu's husband, also hinted there were surprises at this restaurant he didn't want to ruin, prompting a scavenger hunt searching the dining room, perusing the menu, as well as searching the adjacent courtyard and upstairs area. Good thing my life didn't depend on it as the mystery still remains. The dining area was full with a lunch time crowd, so we continued on our quest. I was hoping we would return to enjoy a traditional Creole breakfast, however, the timing just didn't work out. Next on the list, Lu noted, on a personal level, her visits to Preservation Hall where her father, poet Miller Williams, brought her in the late 60's to hear famed jazz pianist Sweet Emma Barrett. We walked past the weathered looking building as I realized I had passed this building several times, unnoticed, in previous visits. Pat O'Brien's is a few doors away and always commanded a stop for a hurricane whenever we were visiting, yet, I never noticed the building or realized its history. Perhaps, it was the libation of too much rum? Needless to say, the "Lu NOLA footsteps" tour carried on.
A few streets over on St. Philips found us walking past Irene's, an Italian restaurant, according to Tom, Lu had played at some point. It was early afternoon, an employee was spraying the sidewalk preparing for dinner guests. The restaurant wasn't due to open for several hours, however, I did peek in when employees were entering, and saw several black and white framed photos, possibly former entertainers, however, I couldn't quite see the faces hanging on the walls. Another suggested stop, a restaurant near Jackson Square, Muriel's, is one I was interested in showing my 11 year old as Lu noted the building was haunted. This elegant upscale restaurant, with a quick look inside was duly noted for a return trip. A few steps away, another haunted suggested stop, Cafe Du Monde, a perfect suggestion for a frigid day in NOLA. I highly recommend both the coffee and the beignets! Apparently, Lu loves the coffee as well, as evidenced in a prior interview where she lists Cafe Du Monde coffee with chicory as a staple stocked in her fridge. You can read this interview HERE.
Lucinda's list steered me towards Royal Street for all things art related, where she noted the highest concentration of galleries ran along Royal Street from Canal Street to Esplanade with the bulk between the 300 to 800 blocks. How's that for personal tour guidance? One shop listed, Kako's Gallery, supported original Louisiana art as well as colorful outsider art. I visited this shop twice as well as some antique shops with musuem like type items. Very cool "stuff."
Lu had an "uptown" spot listed, Camellia Grill, where she noted it as an old time diner with only counters and bar stools. We did travel uptown, via a trolley car, to visit friends staying in the Garden District during their Sugar Bowl stay, however, there was no time to spare, only a few hours between game time and our visit. Another place duly noted for a return trip.
Last mention, and an overlook on my part, a missing list with information I would have LOVED to follow. I received the handwritten lists in several transmissions before I left, via email, and invariably opened one without running a print out. I found it in my old mail on my return *promptly gives swift kick in rear for oversight*. Two places are mentioned with personal notations. One, Parasol's Restaurant , a sports bar Lu notes is in the heart of the Irish Channel (say again?...my family and my husband's family both have strong Irish roots. We gravitate towards these places) and was one of her mother's favorite Po Boy places. Second, and of major interest, a club on Napolean Ave, Tipitina's, a place Lu had performed early in her career. She wrote in her notes..."The club is a lot bigger now than it was in the 70's and I haven't been there in a long time. I don't know what it's like now but I used to play there in the early days - opened up once for Koko Taylor and used to go see Professor Longhair play there." Another swift kick for missing this opportunity. I did find a photo of Lucinda in the archives on their website with photo cred to Pat Kauchick, featured at top of the blog.
Much fun and inspiration was added to my Sugar Bowl trip with the suggested hot spots from Lucinda. I have a yearning to return with my husband one day, in a time when we can really kick up our heels, sans young son. Warmer weather would have been nice. It was very cold while we were there. A Cincinnati Bearcats win over Florida even better. However, it wasn't meant to be. I will, then, take this opportunity to give a special shout out to the Cincinnati football team...thanks for the memories! You had a perfect season and one to take great pride in. I, as a result, had a perfect trip to the Crescent City. Merci!
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